China Cloud-Brocade

A Brief Introduction To The Nanjing "YUNJIN" Silk Brocade

weaver.jpg (35599 ??)THE NANJING"YUNJIN"SILK BROCADE is one of the three brocades well-known in China and abroad.Its elegant and refined design with beautiful colors reminiscent of clouds in the sky.So it's named "Yunjin"(cloud brocade or cloud silk).It is a traditional handicraft in China.In fact,these products were selected for the imperial family in the Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty.

There are several items produced by the loom: Storehouse Stain Multicolor Brocade,Golden Brocade and "Zhuan Hua"(a color jacquard silk fabric),among these,Zhuan Hua is particularly famous and precious.It maintains the artistic characteristics of the Chinese nationality and inherits the traditional silk skills of weaving,composition and color.It represents the high achievement of jacquard fabric in the ancient times of our country.


author: Chueh Pi-Fen
Director Professor:Wang Yu-Ching Maryta Laumann

Silk has a sumptuous and glorious history in China. The Nanking Yun-Jin(Nanking Cloud Brocade) is the latest pearl shining in the tradition of Chinese silk fabrics. However, due to inadequacy of information and historic documentation, the so-called Cloud Brocade, up to this day, has no clear identity of its own. Thus it invites diverse opinions from experts and scholars in the field. The present research, therefore, is an attempt to further clarify the nature and significance of Nanking Yun-jinusing a multi-dimensional approach including design and structural,technological, industrial, socio-economic, historic and international investigations and perspectives. After exploring the process of development of Chinese brocade from the Jin(brocade) to Yun-Jin(Cloud Brocade) to Nanking Yun-jin, the latter was identified and described as including the following major categories of fabrics: the Ku-Duan (satin damask), the Ku-Jin(brocade) and the Juanhua (broche), plus the variations derived from these major categories characterized by minor changes in design. This research investigates the nature and characteristics of the Nanking Yun-Jin belonging to the three major categories on the basis of their fabric structure. Aspects of design and artistic achievement of the Nanking Yun-Jin are discussed from the viewpoint of pattern design, design methodology and practice. The discussion of production technologies includes: weaving, pattern draft making, dyeing and gold thread manufacture.In terms of industrial organization, it can be as curtained that Nanking Yun-Jin was originally produced by the imperial textile mills located in Nanking. However, during the late Ching Dynasty private silk millers began to actively join the line, eventually giving birth to the Nank ing Yun-Jin Textile Association. Hence, both the imperial textile mills as well as the private silk millers constitute the industrial production system of Nanking Yun-Jin.To account for the rise and fall of Nanking Yun-Ji n, Its traditional production system and imperial demands, the historic review begins with the silk history of Nanking, discussing its development and significance throughout the Ming and Ching Dynasties, and concludes with the factors that eventually led to its total collapse in the early twentieth century. In order to appraise the achievements of Chinese silk weaving represented by the Nanking Yun-Jin from a more general perspective, Its value and significance are discussed in the overall context of Chinese brocade developments as well as in the context of related contemporary developments. Personal participation in a major design project, requiring the modernization of Chinese traditional textile designs in general, and Chinese brocade in particular, for the local hotel industry, led to the conclusion that there is a considerable interest and potential demand today for high-quality artistically patterned Chinese fabrics b oth in the local and export markets, a phenomenon worthwhile to be further explored. Thus there is hope that China's cultural pride of the past could fine renewed affirmation through the modernized revival of its unparalleled brocade textile tradition.

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